Simple Glove Pattern
The yarn used was 18 WPI (generally a light fingering weight) and knit with US 1 (2.25mm) with a gauge of 13 stitches by 7.5 rows per inch.
- Cast on 48 stitches using whatever method you prefer; I used a long-tail cast-on. (48)
- *K2, P2* for 15 rows (48)
- PM, knit three stitches, PM (this is where you’ll add increases for the thumb) (48)
- Increase on the stitch after the first marker and the stitch before the second every round for 12 rounds—use right-leaning increases on the first increase and left-leaning on the second increase every time to make a neat triangle that starts at the base of your thumb and goes outward like so: \ / (72)
- Remove those 24 increased stitches and put them on a stitch-holder or piece of waste yarn. Keep knitting the original 48 stitches, connecting them at the thumb hole. Knit for 20 rows.
- Place the 48 stitches on a stitch-holder or waste yarn. Here is where you’ll start knitting the fingers. You can even divide those 48 stitches so each finger has 12, or you may want to “lend” a stitch or two from a smaller finger to a larger one. (I usually give my pinky 10 stitches and give those two stitches to my index and middle fingers)
- If it’s still tight on fingers, go ahead and increase one or two stitches in between the stitches.
- Knit until you’re about four rounds from your fingertips, and then decrease every 4 stitches so that your rounds go from 12 stitches, then 9 stitches, then 6, then 3. Don’t bind off, just cut the working yarn and run them through the stitches you still have. Ending with three or four stitches will keep you from developing little pointed claws at the fingertip.
- Continue on doing this with all fingers, and the thumb. You’ll develop little holes between the fingers, so start the rounds of each finger between the finger you’re knitting and the next one. That way you’ll have a tail to sew the hole shut.
- Ta-da! Weave in the ends and you are GOLDEN
The same simple glove pattern but with instructions to use your own measurements and gauge (currently under construction)
You'll need to knit a swatch to find your gauge, but there's no need to take your own hand measurements if you're doing this for your own self.
- Cast on the number of stitches needed to stretch the full width of your wrist. Adjust the number of stitches so that it'll be a multiple of four if you want to k2, p2 for the wrist. (adjust it to be any even number if you want to do k1, p1 instead)
- *K2, P2* the full height of your writst. (or k1, p1 if you're doing that instead)
- Knit 1/4 of the stitches you have and place a marker before and after your next stitch. This is where you'll put the increases to make space for the base of your thumb. Increase on either side of that sandwiched stitch until the widest part of your hand sits comfortably in the glove.
- Take off the stitches between the two markers (all your freshly-minted increased stitches) and place them on a stitch-holder or waste yarn.
- Continue knitting to the base of your other fingers.
- Here you can divide your stitches into four and